Reese’s heir vs. chocolate skimpflation
Episode
33 min
Read time
2 min
Topics
Productivity, Software Development, Product & Tech Trends
AI-Generated Summary
Key Takeaways
- ✓Label decoding: When buying chocolate products, check for the exact phrase "milk chocolate" on packaging. Terms like "chocolate candy," "chocolatey," or "covered in chocolate" legally signal that the product uses compound coating containing vegetable oil instead of pure cocoa butter — meaning it fails FDA standards for real milk chocolate classification.
- ✓Skimpflation mechanics: Companies facing rising ingredient costs have three levers: raise prices, shrink packaging (shrinkflation), or degrade quality (skimpflation). During the 2024 cocoa crisis, global cocoa butter prices surged from roughly $3,000 to $25,000 per ton — an over 700% spike — pushing Hershey's and other manufacturers to pull all three levers simultaneously.
- ✓FDA chocolate standards: The FDA requires milk chocolate to contain at least 10% chocolate liquor and 100% pure cocoa butter — no vegetable or palm oil substitutions permitted. Peanut butter must contain at least 90% peanuts. Products falling below these thresholds must use alternative labeling, which serves as a consumer signal of reformulation.
- ✓Cocoa supply concentration risk: Roughly 60–70% of global cocoa originates from just two West African countries — Ivory Coast and Ghana. Climate disruptions including drought, extreme heat, and excessive rainfall in those regions can trigger global price shocks. Trump-era tariffs on both countries compounded existing supply pressures before cocoa beans were later exempted on affordability grounds.
- ✓Ingredient changes may be permanent: Historical precedent suggests companies rarely revert after reformulating. When Coke and Pepsi switched from cane sugar to high-fructose corn syrup in the 1980s amid high sugar prices, neither returned to the original formula. Consumers should pressure brands publicly and monitor ingredient lists, since market silence signals acceptance of lower-quality substitutions.
What It Covers
Brad Reese, grandson of Reese's peanut butter cup inventor H.B. Reese, discovers Hershey's replaced milk chocolate and peanut butter with cheaper "chocolate candy" and "peanut butter cream" compounds in several product lines. His public campaign coincides with Hershey's announcing a full return to classic recipes by 2027.
Key Questions Answered
- •Label decoding: When buying chocolate products, check for the exact phrase "milk chocolate" on packaging. Terms like "chocolate candy," "chocolatey," or "covered in chocolate" legally signal that the product uses compound coating containing vegetable oil instead of pure cocoa butter — meaning it fails FDA standards for real milk chocolate classification.
- •Skimpflation mechanics: Companies facing rising ingredient costs have three levers: raise prices, shrink packaging (shrinkflation), or degrade quality (skimpflation). During the 2024 cocoa crisis, global cocoa butter prices surged from roughly $3,000 to $25,000 per ton — an over 700% spike — pushing Hershey's and other manufacturers to pull all three levers simultaneously.
- •FDA chocolate standards: The FDA requires milk chocolate to contain at least 10% chocolate liquor and 100% pure cocoa butter — no vegetable or palm oil substitutions permitted. Peanut butter must contain at least 90% peanuts. Products falling below these thresholds must use alternative labeling, which serves as a consumer signal of reformulation.
- •Cocoa supply concentration risk: Roughly 60–70% of global cocoa originates from just two West African countries — Ivory Coast and Ghana. Climate disruptions including drought, extreme heat, and excessive rainfall in those regions can trigger global price shocks. Trump-era tariffs on both countries compounded existing supply pressures before cocoa beans were later exempted on affordability grounds.
- •Ingredient changes may be permanent: Historical precedent suggests companies rarely revert after reformulating. When Coke and Pepsi switched from cane sugar to high-fructose corn syrup in the 1980s amid high sugar prices, neither returned to the original formula. Consumers should pressure brands publicly and monitor ingredient lists, since market silence signals acceptance of lower-quality substitutions.
Notable Moment
During live production of the episode, a Bloomberg alert broke the news that Hershey's would eliminate chocolate compound from all Reese's and Hershey's products by 2027. The hosts immediately called Brad Reese, who was out at a bar and had not yet seen the announcement.
Episode Transcript
This is Planet Money from NPR. Brad would rather be spending his time singing karaoke right now. I I I do Rolling Stone Rolling Stones. I do, Depeche Mode. I I I just I just have fun. Brad is 70, retired in West Palm Beach, Florida. And when we first talked to him, he showed up wearing a bright orange, I guess, Hawaiian shirt, but with a bunch of Reese's peanut butter cups all over it. Honestly, pretty snazzy. I mean, I I guess, I you could call me a big Reese's fan. And it's his love of Reese's that is keeping him from his beloved karaoke right now. Yeah. Because a little while ago, he heard that the Hershey company had released a new Reese's chocolate. It was Reese's peanut butter mini hearts unwrapped. K? And, of course, then I went out and bought one. Bought a pouch. Brad opens the bag and pops some mini hearts in his mouth. And I took two bites, and it was not recognizable. It was just nasty. It was it was it was not edible. Brad spits out the mini hearts, and then he dumps them in the trash. But then he's like, wait. What was so off about those chocolate hearts? I retrieved the pouch wrapper and looked carefully at the front and the back, and there was no milk chocolate, and there was no real peanut butter. So it wasn't even I don't know what I Greg, I have no idea what I was eating or what I was tasting. Brad is like, what is even in here? No milk chocolate? No peanut butter in a chocolate Reese's peanut butter cup like product? I went to the store and, just investigated everything I could. Brad starts scanning the candy aisles, looking at the wrappers of other Reese's and Hershey's products. Are you familiar with the Reese's Fast Break? I am. Okay. One of my favorites, no longer milk chocolate. Wow. The Reese's Sticks. Have you had those? I have not had the Reese's Sticks. They're similar to a Kit Kat, but peanut butter. And those came out in 1998. Very good. I love them. And it came out as the crisp you can't resist. That used to be milk chocolate. Again, taken off, no milk chocolate. Yeah. The wrappers on these Reese's candies have changed. They used to say milk chocolate. And on some other Reese's candies, they used to say peanut butter. Now they say something else. Chocolate candy. They replaced milk chocolate with chocolate candy, and they replaced the peanut butter with peanut butter cream. And these words, chocolate, candy, peanut butter, cream, They may sound like the real deal milk chocolate and peanut butter, but they are not. It's fake. It's it's compound coating. It it's betrayal. I felt betrayed. I mean, it's like somebody took a dagger and stabbed it in my heart. It'd be one thing if Brad were just like some random Reese's superfan. …
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