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TIP852: Hermès and LVMH Stock: Time to Buy Luxury? w/ Daniel Mahncke & Shawn O'Malley

75 min episode · 3 min read
·

Episode

75 min

Read time

3 min

Topics

Productivity, Personal Finance, Investing

AI-Generated Summary

Key Takeaways

  • ✓Aspirational buyer risk: Luxury brands generating roughly half their market value from aspirational buyers — those spending €1,500–€5,000 annually — face structural cyclicality that top-tier brands avoid. When LVMH raised Louis Vuitton bag prices 60% between 2019 and 2023 (from $1,500 to $2,500), they priced out this cohort permanently without being able to discount back, trapping themselves between unaffordable pricing and brand dilution risk.
  • ✓China luxury collapse mechanics: Chinese consumers fell from one-third of global luxury spending to under one-fifth in roughly three years. The property market decline — now four years running with home prices expected to fall another 4-5% in 2025 before stabilizing in 2027 — destroyed perceived household wealth, pushing savings rates above 30% of disposable income and collapsing the aspirational buyer segment that drove China's 25% annual luxury growth from 2016 to 2019.
  • ✓Luxury cycle timing framework: Historical property downturns across countries average five to six years with roughly 30% price corrections. China's downturn began in 2021, placing it in year four or five with corrections already exceeding 30%. European luxury stocks historically outperform broader markets by 9-12% in the twelve months following a consumer confidence bottom, suggesting late-cycle positioning may be forming but not yet confirmed.
  • ✓LVMH profit concentration risk: Despite owning 75+ brands across five segments, LVMH generates 75% of operating profit from fashion and leather goods, with the Louis Vuitton brand alone accounting for roughly half of that segment's profit. Operating margins in this segment declined from 42% in 2021 to 34% in early 2025 — seven percentage points lost — and management states 3-4% revenue growth is required just to restore positive operating leverage.
  • ✓Cognac secular decline signal: Hennessy US sales dropped from 5 million cases in 2020 to under 3 million in 2024 — a 40% peak decline — as Gen Z alcohol consumption fell 10 percentage points since 2023 and tequila displaced cognac as the status spirit. The wine and spirits segment shrank from 15% of LVMH operating profit in 2019 to under 6% in 2024, limiting further downside impact on the overall investment thesis.

What It Covers

Daniel Mahncke and Shawn O'Malley revisit Hermès and LVMH after both stocks dropped significantly from prior coverage — Hermès down 35-50% from highs, LVMH posting seven consecutive quarters of negative organic growth in fashion and leather — analyzing whether current valuations finally justify entry into luxury equities.

Key Questions Answered

  • •Aspirational buyer risk: Luxury brands generating roughly half their market value from aspirational buyers — those spending €1,500–€5,000 annually — face structural cyclicality that top-tier brands avoid. When LVMH raised Louis Vuitton bag prices 60% between 2019 and 2023 (from $1,500 to $2,500), they priced out this cohort permanently without being able to discount back, trapping themselves between unaffordable pricing and brand dilution risk.
  • •China luxury collapse mechanics: Chinese consumers fell from one-third of global luxury spending to under one-fifth in roughly three years. The property market decline — now four years running with home prices expected to fall another 4-5% in 2025 before stabilizing in 2027 — destroyed perceived household wealth, pushing savings rates above 30% of disposable income and collapsing the aspirational buyer segment that drove China's 25% annual luxury growth from 2016 to 2019.
  • •Luxury cycle timing framework: Historical property downturns across countries average five to six years with roughly 30% price corrections. China's downturn began in 2021, placing it in year four or five with corrections already exceeding 30%. European luxury stocks historically outperform broader markets by 9-12% in the twelve months following a consumer confidence bottom, suggesting late-cycle positioning may be forming but not yet confirmed.
  • •LVMH profit concentration risk: Despite owning 75+ brands across five segments, LVMH generates 75% of operating profit from fashion and leather goods, with the Louis Vuitton brand alone accounting for roughly half of that segment's profit. Operating margins in this segment declined from 42% in 2021 to 34% in early 2025 — seven percentage points lost — and management states 3-4% revenue growth is required just to restore positive operating leverage.
  • •Cognac secular decline signal: Hennessy US sales dropped from 5 million cases in 2020 to under 3 million in 2024 — a 40% peak decline — as Gen Z alcohol consumption fell 10 percentage points since 2023 and tequila displaced cognac as the status spirit. The wine and spirits segment shrank from 15% of LVMH operating profit in 2019 to under 6% in 2024, limiting further downside impact on the overall investment thesis.
  • •Hermès valuation entry framework: At €1,400 per share trading at approximately 32x earnings, a base case model projecting 7-8% revenue CAGR through 2030 with mid-single-digit growth in 2026-2027 accelerating to high-single to low-double digits by 2028-2030 yields roughly 12-13% expected annual return including dividends. The hosts set a personal threshold closer to 20x earnings before conviction buying, which historically would require brand-damaging events that would undermine the thesis itself.

Notable Moment

The hosts identify a paradox specific to Hermès investing: the valuation level that would make them genuinely excited to buy — around 20x earnings — would likely only occur alongside brand damage severe enough to invalidate the investment thesis entirely, making a true margin-of-safety entry point structurally near-impossible for this particular business.

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Episode Transcript

You're listening to TIP. Welcome back to The Investors Podcast. Today's episode is eight 50 two. And Sean and I actually had a one week break. No recordings of the two of us. And I can safely say that doesn't happen too often. So you may have already forgotten, Sean, but the last stock that I pitched to you was Meta. Oh, I remember it well. Don't worry. Well, today I thought I wouldn't just pitch you one stock, but actually two. In fact, we looked at the two companies before. You covered LVMH in July of last year, and I covered MS in February of this year. But since then, both stocks have become arguably even more attractive as they have kept dropping and have now reached historical valuation lows, which for a company like MS still means 30 plus multiple, but still significantly cheaper than we can usually buy them. So while we decided not to buy either of them last time for our intrinsic value portfolio, maybe this time it's different. Well, we definitely like the businesses, but we were a bit concerned about the valuations. We would have had to pay for the shares in them. And then there are also some macro concerns that were already starting to show up. Anybody who knows us knows we're not macro investors, but when the consequences of macroeconomic developments are already being felt at the company level and then you're still paying a premium, a hefty premium at that for shares on the stock, well, that's just not the sort of margin of safety like investment set up that we look for. I gotta say though, I especially liked MS, which now is 50% from its all time highs and about 35% lower. So quite significantly lower than the last time we looked at the stock. But as you said, there definitely are concerning trends with these companies that cause us to not just look at the stock price, but actually figure out what's going on. And that is why we're here to record today's episode. So let's get into it. Since 2014, with more than 200,000,000 downloads, we have interviewed the world's best investors, studied deeply the principles of value investing, and uncovered many compelling investment opportunities. We focus on understanding businesses and intrinsic value, investing accordingly, and sharing everything we learn with you. This show is not investment advice. It's intended for informational and entertainment purposes only. All opinions expressed by hosts and guests are solely their own, and they may have investments in the securities discussed. Now for your hosts, Sean O'Malley and Daniel Manker. All right, Daniel, where do you wanna start today? So maybe a good place to start today is the state of the luxury market in general, because it's quite interesting. I feel like luxury has been seen as this stable, noncyclical industry since its customers are supposed to be less concerned with how the general economy is doing. So, you …

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