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In Good Company with Nicolai Tangen

Zalando Co-CEO: Building Europe's Fashion Giant, AI in Retail and the European Dream

41 min episode · 2 min read
·
Zalando Co-ceo

Episode

41 min

Read time

2 min

Topics

Career Growth, Personal Finance, Startups

AI-Generated Summary

Key Takeaways

  • Flywheel Sequencing: Build selection depth before breadth — Zalando started with hyper-specific shoe searches (e.g., Adidas Samba size 46) before expanding to full brands, then categories, then geographies. This sequencing allowed traffic conversion to compound naturally, scaling revenue from €5 million in 2009 to over €1.2 billion by year four.
  • B2B Infrastructure Monetization: Once logistics infrastructure reaches scale, productize it for third parties. Zalando now offers its European fulfillment network to 7,000 brands — including Next — enabling them to run their own ecommerce and connect to multiple marketplaces from a single inventory system, eliminating the need for brands to build their own CapEx-heavy logistics.
  • AI-Driven Size Prediction: Zalando's app allows customers to photograph themselves, generating body measurements that, combined with merchandise measurement data, predict correct sizing. Millions of customers already use this feature. The near-term goal is eliminating manual size selection entirely for portions of the catalog, with close to 100% fit confidence.
  • Returns Reduction via 3D Rendering: A primary driver of returns is the gap between product expectation and reality. Zalando converts 2D product images into 3D renders and video to close this gap. Separately, products tagged with sustainability labels show measurably lower return rates, creating a simultaneous win for brands, consumers, and environmental impact.
  • Frugality as Founder Culture: Gentz describes spending half a day debating whether to spend €60 on a market research book during the 2008 financial crisis. He credits this resource scarcity with instilling a capital discipline that persists across the now 15,000-person organization — treating every euro as personal money remains a codified cultural principle used in hiring and promotion decisions.

What It Covers

Robert Gentz, co-founder and co-CEO of Zalando, traces the company's growth from selling 20 flip flops daily in 2008 to serving 60 million customers across 25 European markets, covering AI-driven retail innovation, logistics infrastructure, returns reduction, and the case for building technology companies within Europe.

Key Questions Answered

  • Flywheel Sequencing: Build selection depth before breadth — Zalando started with hyper-specific shoe searches (e.g., Adidas Samba size 46) before expanding to full brands, then categories, then geographies. This sequencing allowed traffic conversion to compound naturally, scaling revenue from €5 million in 2009 to over €1.2 billion by year four.
  • B2B Infrastructure Monetization: Once logistics infrastructure reaches scale, productize it for third parties. Zalando now offers its European fulfillment network to 7,000 brands — including Next — enabling them to run their own ecommerce and connect to multiple marketplaces from a single inventory system, eliminating the need for brands to build their own CapEx-heavy logistics.
  • AI-Driven Size Prediction: Zalando's app allows customers to photograph themselves, generating body measurements that, combined with merchandise measurement data, predict correct sizing. Millions of customers already use this feature. The near-term goal is eliminating manual size selection entirely for portions of the catalog, with close to 100% fit confidence.
  • Returns Reduction via 3D Rendering: A primary driver of returns is the gap between product expectation and reality. Zalando converts 2D product images into 3D renders and video to close this gap. Separately, products tagged with sustainability labels show measurably lower return rates, creating a simultaneous win for brands, consumers, and environmental impact.
  • Frugality as Founder Culture: Gentz describes spending half a day debating whether to spend €60 on a market research book during the 2008 financial crisis. He credits this resource scarcity with instilling a capital discipline that persists across the now 15,000-person organization — treating every euro as personal money remains a codified cultural principle used in hiring and promotion decisions.

Notable Moment

Gentz argues that the American Dream has shifted from an inclusive to an exclusive brand, creating a strategic opening for Europe. He frames this not as anti-American sentiment but as a concrete market opportunity — a values-driven, talent-rich continent that has yet to articulate a compelling positive narrative for founders.

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Episode Transcript

Hi, everyone. I'm Nicola Tangen, the CEO of the Norwegian Sew and Wealth Fund. And today, I'm here with Robert Gents, who is visiting us in Oslo. And Robert is the cofounder and co CEO of Zalando, which is, of course, as you know, all of you, Europe's leading online fashion platform. Robert started Zalando in 2008, right as the financial crisis hit, and most people thought that selling shoes online was a terrible idea. But now, seventeen years later, Zalando serves more than 50,000,000 customers across 25 European markets. We own a lot of shares in this company and it's really exciting to have you here. Yeah. Thank you so much for for inviting me and having me. And of course, since you own the biggest kind of fashion thing, in the world, what do you what do you wear today? I'm very, very dark today. So everything that I wear, I actually got from Zalando's today. So It's a bit like Steve Jobs. Like your Yeah. And I start like in Norway. You kind of have to rest a little bit warmer. Good, good idea. Now, Rob, let's go back to the start. You founded, Zalando in 2008 just as the financial crisis, was kind of hitting the world. So tell me about the very start. Before we started Zalando, like, me and my cofounder David, we started, like, a a social media company in, in Latin America, so which was, like, you know, student network for, in Mexico, Argentina, and Chile. And this was, like, a startup that didn't really work out. So and then we said, okay. Well, that that shouldn't be it. So we actually wanted to actually try it one more time. And, we came back to Europe and thought, okay, well, in ecommerce with soft goods, there's actually very great opportunity here in Europe. And, we we looked into various categories and and fashion and and and really found shoes quite quite interesting. And, in June 2008, we started to sell flip flops on a domain called Flip Flops three, and really worked out well. Consumers really liked it. It really picked up, like, to whatever, like, 20 flip flops a day. Based on this insight, we got now investments into into for, like, a big idea selling shoes online, and then we got started. What, 20 flip flops a day. Were you you were packing them yourselves and sending them out? Or Yeah. Yeah. We, we we packed them ourselves. We, went to the post office and and really enjoyed every single customer, contact we had and every single conversation and just, and as well as, like, why did they actually go for for an online search for flip flops and why didn't they go to stores? And it was, very, very good insight. So that was mid mid two thousand eight, right before the Finnish crisis. But e commerce were was quite new at that stage. Right? Yeah. It was certainly …

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